"OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
05/09/2016 at 09:19 • Filed to: None
1
20|
"OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
05/09/2016 at 09:19 • Filed to: None | 1
| 20 |
so I got one of these in on Saturday. It was fairly simple
break the axle nut loose
lift it onto jack stands, take the wheel off
6 bolts at the transfer case, then the axle nut
I was having trouble getting it out of the hub, so I took of some sort of axle shield.
Then reverse, into the hub, the 6 bolts, shield, wheel and done.
but
Saturday I went for a short drive and got a weird grinding noise. It only lasted for a couple minutes so I actually thought it may have been the guy behind me.
today, it did it the whole way to work. It seems louder at low speeds. It doesn;t really change tone and it doesn;t sound like it speeds up with the car or engine. it doesn;t happen if i’;m not moving. there is a constant grind noise with the occasional loud grind almost like the sound of a subway train going around a turn. there is no pulling to either side. WTF
DrJohannVegas
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 09:27 |
|
Congratulations: It’s a wheel bearing.
PotbellyJoe and 42 others
> DrJohannVegas
05/09/2016 at 09:28 |
|
Sounds about right to me.
CalzoneGolem
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 09:34 |
|
I find on older cars sometimes fixing one thing will reveal that now you have to fix another thing.
Ash78, voting early and often
> DrJohannVegas
05/09/2016 at 09:41 |
|
Coming here to post this. You can't work on a 15-year-old VAG product without solving one problem and creating two new ones.
SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 09:41 |
|
Sounds like a wheel bearing to me.
|
Ash78, voting early and often
> CalzoneGolem
05/09/2016 at 09:48 |
|
There is so much merit to this, sadly. I rarely fixed anything under the hood of my ‘98 Passat without breaking AT LEAST some plastic fastener, part of the PCV system, or worse. It's a solid theory to just leave everything alone unless absolutely necessary, then if you take it to a shop and they break something by mistake, the odds are better that they'll fix it for you. I only learned this after 10+ years of DIY, which is part of why I cut down on doing everything myself.
|
OPPOsaurus WRX
> Ash78, voting early and often
05/09/2016 at 09:50 |
|
this was necessary, the CV was ticking
|
DrJohannVegas
> DrJohannVegas
05/09/2016 at 10:36 |
|
Also, lest anyone feel I am unaware of the burdens which a new wheel bearing entails (the money, the lost sleep, the anxieties), I recently had one of my own:
Logansteno: Bought a VW?
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 10:47 |
|
One step forward, two steps back. The motto of the German automobile DIY-er
|
OPPOsaurus WRX
> DrJohannVegas
05/09/2016 at 11:03 |
|
how long do i have before it grenades? can I drive it to work and back for a few days if i order the part today
|
DrJohannVegas
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 11:11 |
|
I drove on mine for quite a while, because it started making noise right before the winter hit. I don’t recommend doing that, but you should be fine for the time it takes to order the part and install it.
|
OPPOsaurus WRX
> DrJohannVegas
05/09/2016 at 11:31 |
|
i had one go on an Explorer and it sounded 100 times worse and it pulled HARD.
|
DrJohannVegas
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 11:39 |
|
Yea, the way Audi (and VAG generally) do wheel bearings on driven hubs is a pretty stable design, and if it’s grumbling (so, messed up races, rather than loose from a damaged or missing ball), it’s not going to produce sufficient misalignment to make handling bad. Two things to check. First, does the noise change when you turn one way or the other? Second, does it vary with speed? If no to the first, you might start by looking for something dragging on the brakes. A stone, a heat shield, etc. If no to the latter, it’s not in the rotating bits. Either of those would rule out the wheel bearing hypothesis.
Edit: You might also check the torque on the driveshaft bolt itself. It handles all of the tension duties for the bearing races, so if it’s not right, its gonna make noise.
MonkeePuzzle
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 12:25 |
|
break the axle nut loose
lift it onto jack stands, take the wheel off
man, did I learn this order the wrong way the first time I did it!
really there is a step zero missing,
step 0: go buy the specialty huge sized socket you will need for the axle nut
ESSSIX GmbH - Accountant/Wagon Thumper
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 12:48 |
|
Metal on metal? It could be the rotor shield.
sonicgabe
> DrJohannVegas
05/09/2016 at 12:52 |
|
Yup. Exactly what it is.
|
OPPOsaurus WRX
> MonkeePuzzle
05/09/2016 at 13:29 |
|
thats actually step 00.
step 0 was lift the car take the wheel off and realize you didn;t free the axle nut.
|
OPPOsaurus WRX
> DrJohannVegas
05/09/2016 at 13:44 |
|
I do think your onto something. it didn’t seem to change with speed.
you wouldn’t happen to know the torque on the nut do you? we just set it at ‘really tight’
|
DrJohannVegas
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 13:48 |
|
I’ve seen 140 ft-lb for the C5 A6 as the setting. On the Golf, where the bolt is much the same, we crank it to 180+, but I suspect that has something to do with the difference in bearing used.
See: http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/C5/B…
Edit: Also, renting the front wheel drive bearing tool is essential. Makes the job downright liveable. (If it is indeed the bearing.)
NJAnon
> OPPOsaurus WRX
05/09/2016 at 21:27 |
|
ugh, suspension/drivetrain parts. Thats the devils area.